HISTORY OF SURFING briefly
Surfing has been around for centuries. When Captain Cook first saw surfers in Hawaii, guys and girls were surfing together naked. Well, the explorers and missionaries were not so stoked by that so they banned it. Fortunately, the natives continued to sneak away and go surfing. If they hadn't, this sport might have become a lost art.
Fast forward a couple hundred years and George Freeth was showing the world what surfing was all about. He was billed as the "Man Who Could Walk On Water." Right here in Santa Monica, in front of the Casa Del Mar Hotel, ten thousand folks showed up to watch that man and the rest is history.
Originally surfboards were very expensive and it was a pretty exclusive sport. That was until the 1960s. Surfing exploded as Hollywood, the Gidgit movies and the Beach Boys made surfing cool. Surfboards began selling at gas stations for $50. J. Paul Getty was asked, "What was the part that brought happiness to his life?" He said that even with all of his businesses and family successes, he was most happy when he was surfing in Malibu. (He even located the original museum right there in Malibu off PCH).
Do yourself a flavor flav and check this sport out. There are very few rules, no scores, no referees and it's all about having fun. I can tell you from personal experience it might even change your life.